Today, the Clapps own the Cellardoor Winery, Maine's only fully operational vineyard, where they grow their own grapes on 8.5 acres, creating over 5,000 gallons of wine last year. As they moved from full-time innkeepers to full-time winemakers, one thing has remained constant for the Clapps: great food.
One of Clapp's standbys is her "Cellardoor Crab Cakes," a crafty combination of potato, spices, shrimp, and crabmeat mixed together and battered in bread crumbs. "They are good for lunch, dinner, or appetizers
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"This is a recipe you can do for the rest of your life, something you can put any kind of fish in," Clapp says. When preparing this dish, consider serving bread and wine with the meal. She included whole wheat sourdough bread, a traditional French bread that can be found at various bakeries, and a bottle of Cellardoor's Stone Tower Riesling. "The dryness of the Riesling goes incredibly well with any fish."
While the crab cakes were delicious, the wine was in some ways the real showstopper. How do they make such wonderful wine from Maine grapes? The secret to using their own grapes for certain wines, says John Clapp, is a grapevine called the St. Croix, an engineered grapevine from Minnesota. "The grape from the St. Croix vine can actually withstand temperatures as low as -40F without spoiling," he says.
Topping off Stephanie Clapp's light, delicious meal is a fruit engineered for Maine by Mother Nature: wild blueberries. A few scoops of ice cream, sweet blueberry sauce, a little mint, and the luncheon ends with this writer once again appreciating the simple pleasures of life: great food and drink.
Cellardoor Crab Cakes
Serves 4
1 cup Maine potatoes, cut in 1-in. cubes
1 cup milk
2 cloves garlic (smashed)
1 tsp. thyme
2 bay leaves
1/2 tsp. black peppercorns
8 oz. small shrimp
1/2 to 1 lb. crabmeat
2 Tbs. butter
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 cup chopped chives
Cook potatoes with milk, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Boil until tender, then strain. Add shrimp, crabmeat, butter, salt, and chives, and let cool. Once cooled, form small patties with this mixture and dip in bread crumbs. Shake off excess bread crumbs. Layer frying pan with 1/2 in. of cooking oil; cook on medium for 5 minutes on each side. Serve with green salad, homemade dressing, fruit salsa, and garnish with lemon.
SIDEBAR: Clapp on Cooking
ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS
Salt It. Stephanie Clapp is a fan of spicing her foods with sea salt, which she uses with most meals: "It's marvelous."
Dress It Up. To give the crab cakes an extra flare, she adds a homemade remoulade dressing and pineapple salsa. Others might try a dressing of their own or tartar sauce.
Make It Pretty. After removing the crab cakes from the pan, place them on a blanket of fresh garden greens and add an edible flower such as pansy or nasturtium for a first-class presentation.
Serve with Bread. Whole wheat sourdough bread works well with Clapp's main course, whether homemade or from the store. Local bakeries make many kinds of bread.
Make Batter Crumby. "Any bread crumbs will do." While the potato holds the crab cakes together, the bread crumbs help give it the golden-brown look and light, crispy texture.
As Fresh as It Gets. Just about every recipe calls for herbs and spices. Here's a list of Stephanie's favorites to try in a sauce: chive, cilantro, mint, red pepper, and parsley.
Try Dry Wine. When serving fish, use a dry wine with the meal. "Dry wine has a smooth, crisp taste and clean finish that really completes fish." Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Rieslings are good bets for dry wines.
For more information on Stephanie and John Clapp and the Cellardoor Winery and Vineyard, visit www.mainewine.com.
