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The story of Mark Janicki’s figuring out how to actually like salmon starts, not in Maine, but in Lynn, Massachusetts. “I grew up right down the street from my Italian grandparents, John and Mary Ditroia,” he says. “One of my earliest memories was my grandmother making fresh pasta. It was such backbreaking work rolling it thin enough to be delicate, my grandfather would step in.”
The inspiration from his grandmother’s simple, lovingly crafted approach to food altered the course of Mark Janicki’s life. He went on to study culinary arts at Newbury College in Boston and at La Varenne in Paris, working as sous-chef in prestigious restaurants. His true culinary destiny, his students say, began 14 years ago, when Janicki began teaching the art, science, business, history, and joy of cooking to students at Eastern Maine Community College. “I actually started out in college as an education major, so teaching was the perfect career for me.”
With students gone for summer break, it was Chef Janicki’s turn for an assignment: What can you teach us to grill this summer that is delicious and healthy?
With the assistance of his EMCC colleague Diane Lynott, Janicki laid out the lesson for making molasses lemon grilled salmon that was as captivating to watch as a Food Channel demo. (Editor’s note: You can watch Mark Janicki cook this recipe in person at www.bangormetro.tv.)
“The reason I chose salmon is that I’ve never cared for salmon. I thought if I could come up with a recipe I liked, just about anyone would like it.”
Salmon, he notes, is one of the healthy foods we Americans are all encouraged to eat more of. His students, therefore, need to know the skinny on salmon.
“The profession has changed a lot since I came here in 1993. Now there’s much more emphasis on nutrition and healthy eating. Back then, vegetarian cooking was barely mentioned; now it’s a major part of what we teach.” Fresh salmon, rich in “good fats” like omega-3 fatty acids, is also a hot restaurant item his students need to know how to finesse.
On the day of Janicki’s grilled salmon lesson, Diane Lynott, his teaching assistant and sous-chef, enters the kitchen with a long package and unwraps a beautiful salmon filet. Janicki immediately lifts it up and smells it. “Very fresh salmon has a sliced melon scent. It should never smell fishy, just a faint hint of ocean breeze. And when it’s very fresh, you’ll smell melons.”
Next, Janicki lays out the filet and cuts off the thin edge pieces so the filet is of uniform thickness. “You can smoke these smaller pieces, or poach them and make them into a dip,” he says. “But I want that uniformity so it will cook evenly.”
Janicki’s recipe for his salmon marinade has only four ingredients—molasses, butter, lemon, and fresh cracked pepper. As the molasses and butter warm together in a saucepan, he squeezes in the juice of one lemon, then scores another and cuts it into attractive wheels for presentation, and putting some of the zest in the marinade. “You don’t use the white pith,” he warns. “The yellow portion has just the oils and the flavors without that bitter quality.” Before adding the marinade, he also scores the salmon. “It prevents it from curling.”
According to Chef Janicki, a cook has several options with this basic salmon recipe. In the winter, it can be baked instead of grilled, though he personally prefers the charbroiled flavor. ”As those flames lick the skin, it’s going to give another component to that flavor profile.” Fresh herbs such as tarragon can be added, and the salmon can be marinated in the sauce overnight. But one ingredient is not optional: a sizzler.
“One of the most common mistakes people make grilling is not taking advantage of tools such as pans and sizzlers.” Using such tools on the grill, he says, allows you to initially sear and charbroil the food, and then slow down the cooking process and add lots of marinade—without attracting the attention of the fire department.
He practices what he preaches: Janicki first grills the salmon, brushing on conservative amounts of marinade, then moves in onto his metal sizzler to the cooler side of the grill so it can stay warm and slather on more without any flare-ups.
When cooked to perfection, Janicki places his omega-3-rich handiwork on warmed plates along with the lemon wheels (which he also grilled) and a fragrant sprig of dill for garnish.
Though we’re not supposed to eat the dill, he says, it’s not just for looks. “The major part of what you’re doing is smelling. If there’s something fragrant on the plate, it can also enhance the experience.”
And what an experience. The grilled salmon is tender and sweet, and goes down as easy as, well, fresh homemade pasta.
Indeed: Mark Janicki has tasted the work of the world’s finest culinaries, from the grande dame Julia Child to proteges like his sous-chef, Diane, a recent EMCC graduate. But, he says, “my grandmother is probably still the best cook I ever knew. She never measured anything. It was all in her hands. ”
Skeptics' Salmon
Serves 6
1 salmon filet, very fresh
1/2 pound salted butter (two sticks)
2 cups molasses
2 lemons, 1 juiced, 1 sliced
Fresh ground pepper
Fresh dill for garnish
Finely shaved onion slices (optional)
Melt butter in heavy saucepan over low heat. Blend with molasses and juice of one lemon. Remove thin sides of salmon filet. Cut filet into uniform portions. (Do not remove skin, as it’s easier to manage on the grill.) Cover salmon with marinade and add pepper to taste. Place, skin side down, on hot grill and sear. Turn and sear flesh side, and continue turning when needed with a thin spatula. Continue grilling until salmon just starts to flake around the edges and the skin begins to separate from the flesh. Transfer filets to an aluminum sizzler placed on the cool side of the grill and add additional marinade. Grill lemon wheels. Add shaved onions to top of salmon to cut sweetness, if desired. Serve grilled salmon on warmed plates with lemon and dill garnishes.
